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Fallas 2010: Bullfight on March 19th

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We took my dad, a lifelong fan of Hemingway, to his first bullfight on the last day of Fallas, squeezing into the stadium’s tiny bench seats as best we could. Next to us, a couple of gray-haired Spanish ladies sat gossiping; in front of us, a rowdy group of Spanish youths smoking and eating bocadillos… a perfectly Spanish day, which could’ve come straight out of Death in the Afternoon.

Enrique Ponce, one of Spain’s most celebrated matadors, started the day with a great performance, and received an ear for his efforts. Kind of gross… he tossed it into the crowd, during his triumphant lap around the arena.

We stayed for the first three bulls, but left mid-way through. Attending a corrida is an intense, uncomfortable and interesting experience, but there’s just so much we foreigners can take.

I know, I know, we’re awful people for attending a corrida — last time we wrote about it, we got a bucketful of hate mail screeching about our depravity. That’s fine, and I understand the argument; an arena filled with people celebrating the death of an animal is pretty barbaric. But I don’t get the intensity of the opposition. The world is full of real problems, like wars, genocide and poverty. Global warming. Female genital mutilation. Deforestation. Catholic rape orgies.

Sigh, but if you must share your hatred with us, at least make sure to put that hamburger down. You won’t want to get your keyboard greasy!

Buy Valencia bullfight tickets here (change location to Spain)

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March 26, 2010 at 5:14 pm Comments (2)

Museo Taurino – Bullfighting Museum

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Tucked into the passageway of Dr. Serra on the eastern side of the Plaza de Toros, you might happen across the little Museo Taurino (location). Even if you just have 15 minutes to spare, it’s worth ducking inside.


15 minutes because the museum is tiny, worth it because it’s free.

We went earlier this week with my dad, who had been disappointed that there were no bullfights in the city during his two-week stint. So instead, we contented him with the museum.

The permanent museum exhibition is little more than a single hall, with portraits, costumes and information about the history of bullfighting in Valencia. From the 1800’s to the present day, you can learn about the acts of a bullfight, the costumes of the toreros and the personal histories of many famous toreros. I had no idea so many died by goring.

All of the information is presented in English, as well as Valencian and Castellano. It makes an adequate, free consolation prize for any vacationers who’d been hoping to see a bullfight in person. If you go, make sure to do so on a day without rain, and you’ll be able to walk around the Plaza de Toros as well. We were denied this pleasure by weekend rain.

Museo Taurino: Surprisingly Impressive Website
Location on our Valencia Map

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April 28, 2009 at 2:25 pm Comments (4)